Eating in Russia is a unique experience ? whether it?s to do with the local cuisine or restaurant etiquette. After all, Italian, French and American food are well know all over the world, but traditional Russian dishes like blini, plov, pelmeni or borsch have yet to arrive in the food courts and shopping malls or Europe or the Americas.
Choosing your restaurant
Moscow is, not surprisingly, a great place to try traditional Russian food ? and also many of the cuisines of the former Soviet Union, especially Georgian and Ukrainian.
Many people reckon the city?s Georgian restaurants, such as Genatsvale on the Arbat o, are the best places to eat. And for me, this is among the best food I?ve ever tasted. You just can?t go wrong with khachapuri (cheesy bread, often topped with a fried egg) or lobio (a bean dish which can be anything from a cold salad to a warming casserole depending on the chef?s ideas) ? either one makes a great starter and, in a city where carnivores are definitely king, both are usually suitable for vegetarians. The debate about the birthplace of the Shashlyk ? marinaded meat or fish grilled on a skewer over an open flame ? is sure to stir the passions of proud Georgians and Azerbaijani, but wherever it comes from it?s always a good option in a Caucasian restaurant.
A beautiful Shasklyk
There?s an on-going debate about what can be described as Ukrainian or Russian food as well, and while Moscow has plenty of Ukrainian restaurants ? including Shinok and Korchma, it?s not always easy to distinguish their specialities from some of the offerings at Russian places like MariVanna.
To be honest, I have some issues with Ukrainian food ? I agree that it worth trying, but there are some things I just can?t acquire a taste for. If you want to stay in the comfort zone, go for a Chicken Kiev. It?s a boneless chicken breast filled with garlic butter and deep fried. You may think it?s a heart attack on a plate, and I couldn?t agree more, but that?s nothing compared to Salo. This is a true Ukrainian speciality ? unrendered pork fat, eaten raw, smoked or salted ? and it?s something I just can?t enjoy so far.
However, Varenyky (dumplings similar to the Russian Pelmeni), Pirozhky (small pies filled with meat, cabbage or fruits) and Deruny (potato pancakes) are very good ? so much so that many Russians are keen to claim them as their own. Ukraine is also renowned for its fertile fields of grain, and consequently has a wide range of interesting and unusual breads which are worth exploring as well.
In the restaurant
If you?re used to going out for a quick bite, maybe just one course and a drink ? forget it! In Russia going out for a meal is usually a big event, and people take to time enjoy their food. The culture is relaxed, and that includes services times. One time I was with some friends waiting an hour and a half to get our meal. I was almost freaking out, but they were just waiting calmly, drinking beer. Speedy service is rarely an issue here ? and luckily they weren?t hungry!
When the food does arrive, it usually comes in waves. Cold appetizers (zakuzky) get things started: pickled vegetables, marinaded fish, bread and plenty of vodka. Next it?s a salad and a soup ? usually from a large and imaginative range. Russian salads ? think Olivye, the herring-based Seld pod shuboi and the like ? tend to be substantial, with plenty of mayonnaise in there, but there are usually some lighter options with a more international flavor. And the soups ? led by the classic beetroot-based Borsch ? are an essential part of any Russian dining experience. Only after that onslaught does the main course arrive, usually something hearty and meat-based.
My favorite Russian drink - Mors!
As for drink, everyone knows about Russian vodka, and beer is a popular choice with a meal. But there are some traditional Russian drinks which are worth checking out. Mors is a juice made from cooked berries ? usually cranberry ? and slightly sweetened. Often this is home-made for the restaurant, so it?s fun to try different flavors and see which is your favorite. Kvas, however, is very different. Dating back to Russia?s ancient monasteries, it?s a fermented drink made from rye bread. It looks and tastes a bit like a dark, sweet beer, and is slightly alcoholic. I?m not a big fan ? I don?t like beer either ? but it?s been a staple Russian drink for centuries.
After all that, not surprisingly, desserts are not common. Usually it?s time to sit back with a cup of tea, although ice cream is popular even when it?s freezing outside. For me, it?s all a bit too much and I can normally only manage a salad and a main dish. Servings are often kinda big here, and it?s just more than I can eat at one sitting!
A few quirks
There are some peculiarities that I saw in a few restaurants here. Typically you order everything at once ? but don?t expect them to come in any specific order. Your food comes when it?s ready, whether you?d expect that dish to come first or last. It?s happened to me a couple of times, when I ordered a little appetizer and a pizza, and the pizza came first. Another think you may find curious is that almost every restaurant in Russia also serves sushi no matter if the restaurant is completely unrelated to Japanese food or not. People here seem to love it!
What?s your favorite Russian dish? Did I miss any of them? Do you also love to eat shashlyk with a huge glass of mors? Write your thoughts!
(all images were found on Google Images. If it?s yours, please let us know!)
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